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I'm trying to get started in the hobby by making my own rc plane and i can say that your videos are very helpful, keep it up!

Great series, I really appreciate how you share your reasoning and philosophy. Some of the little details like putting foam in the printed blocks are pure gold. Keep up the great work!

Brilliant to see. I built one of them. In about 1980. It was a fun plane but could give you a surprise on takeoff. Mine would suddenly do a 90 turn on the runway and then get airborne. It could also get a bit snappy. Mine flew well on a graupner 12 x 6 prop. 😊

Looks like human schrek! Lovingly stated!

When something in the kit doesn't look right, I cogitate on it overnight and usually I suss it out after a good night's sleep. Also, if you are converting a Pitts to electric you may want to lighten up the tail feathers and rear fuselage a bit. Save some of that nose weight.

It's easier now to learn CAD and design your own aircraft. I even use CAD and a laser cutter for prototyping. At least that way when you have to change things, you have a definite and precise starting point. Which allows you to have a precise point of measurement to measure from, to get to where you want to be, and maybe you can get to the final step of reiteration faster. Once you get it all sorted, then you can just push a Botton and pump the things out in a production line. just as a request, is there anyway you can measure the glide ratio of the Pitts once it's flying? People always say they glide like a brick. Would be interesting piece of bit to know. of course, then you would have to glide a brick to see what it's optimal ratio is... ha ha always enjoy your vids!

Looking good! I enjoy watching others build and pick up new techniques.

Awesome video. Thanks!

Want to see you to put the fuselage together

Want to see putting the fuslug together

Which ultralight are you building? Aerolite 103 or flybike mby? Its an awsome stabiliser non the less.

One of the best verbal tips I have heard on landing an RC plane. I got into the hobby when the Expo radios were first coming out - the analog radio gear became dirt cheap and I bought a nice set-up - and yes it did have dual rates with channel reversing. What it taught me was how to properly rig my airplanes. I did have a friend who I grew-up with who was a Pilot, Mechanic and Inspector - invaluable advice was given. It took me years to get away from my analog radio gear, and I still always run back first to static rigging of the the airframe before playing with what I call the 'Band-Aid' of Expo.

How many meters is wings width?

Don't know if this part of what you're about but I might as well put this out. I'm retired and kinda working on my bucket list one of the things I always wanted to do is fly RC partially a plane I built. As I looked around I found some foames made by Volantex and for me they have proven to just the ticket. What is working so well with me is they have this 6-axis gyro system a kind of auto pilot that when I switch it on straightens up the plane. How this works is I start at beginner level and get the feel of the plane and sticks, after I'm comfortable with this and most likely begin to develop some muscle memory I switch up to intermediate level were l have more control and can maneuver the plane in more radical maneuvers. In this mode I can learn by experience how to change my heading using just the rudder amongst other things. If I get into trouble I simply switch it back to beginner and the X- pilot ( Volantex name for there 6-axis gyros ) straightens the plane up and I try again. I am now too the point were I can fly it on expert mode ( no gyro assistance) for several minutes now before I have to go back to some help from the gyros. At the rate I'm learning it won't be long till I won't need the gyros. So here's my question is this technology the 6-axis gyro system available to be plugged into or part of a receiver that could be used in a plane I build?

I know very little about airplane design, I usually grab my foam board and cut, glue and sand untill what I'm seeing my head is eventually sitting in front of me. 80% of the time they fly pretty good and the more I watch these videos they do even better. It's been a fun journey.

I never plug the red wire from the esc to the receiver Watching that the esc ad a problem I will not ask what brand it’s

Next time you have dings in the balsa spray it with some water and put your hot iron on it. Like the blocks for the crutch. I need to get into 3d printing. Mike

I don't think enough emphasis is put on the meditative aspect of building balsa airplanes. The more focused you can be, the better the result. New subscriber!

I don’t think I actually thought about the ratio when I set up my control rods to my control horns in consideration to how much more the servo could put into torque. This is awesome man I would never have even the slightest thought about it 😂

A great video

That's a doll😂😂lol

I'm a 67 year old man that when I was 5 got one of those balsa gliders you talked about. Went on to build a number of balsa and tissue mode airplanes including a glider made by Thermic? It was called the trooper, had a ball flying it. I also learned how to build very complex models of my own design using nothing but paper. So now that I'm retired one of the challenges on my bucket list is to build a RC Spitfire using paper as the airframe and covering. One of the problems I was trying to solve was what size motor, so this is useful info thanks. In another non flying model had problems with motor overheating so I installed a water jacket around the motor. It worked very well, maybe copying what the 109, Spitfire, Mustang etc did could solve the overheating problem just like the full-sized aircraft did. Yes it would add weight but then it would allow the motor to pull that weight longer and harder.

Nice. You should try homesote for your building surface. Last many years and easily takes t pins. I'll have to try that glue. I use epoxy on my doublers. Mike c

Ok, this is cool.

Looking forward to it!

One of the best things with old kits is the hours of just staring at the plan and building it in your mind. Hours of fun and free of charge. 🙂

Have you flown your Airbike?

Are the gear controller PCB still available? I have the code that b delapena sent me, but have no idea if the PCB's are available. Thanks

Did you lay up the glass fuselage or purchase? If purchased may I get contact info even if its a website,Thank You

My instructor many years ago told me something that has stayed with me to this day. SHIT HAPPENS.

Impressive! That mechanical nose gear door actuation is art in motion.

Thanks for sharing all the details. I've been doing SLA prints for 3d pilots and it's been a learning experience. Love to see how others do it.

Brother I'm a pipe welder/ fitter for a living and I've searched hight and low for prints like the one you got. Only problem, it's too blurry to make out. What's the chances of you sending me a copy of them

It is all great

Looking forward to AirBike videos.

Smart. Thanks for the heads up 😊 I separated the landing gear from the flaps so I can adjust the landing for my F8F Bearcat. Was this the right thing to do?

I remember seeing that years ago on your b-36 build thread.

3d Printing Tip: you can use acetone to smooth out the 3d printing lines.

Just wish that I had the gear to be able to do things like that

13:59 Every ebike battery is being parallel charged when you charge it. The only difference is those batteries cells are paralleled by a bus and you are paralleling the cells with the balance leads. I would trust this method since its just charging at 1c so if the packs are not total 💩 they will not try to have high current in the balance leads since the packs are all balanced. Your last example of the 4s that sagged to 3.8v but had cell differential of only 0.01v tells me that pack is still good but as you stated just needs to be used where burst amps is slightly lower and continuous amps less than 50% of that.

Looks awesome!!

Cool! In last weeks I was thinking about this. I’ll need to write the options down. Truth is the max torque of the servo is always the same as the force on the rudder if the deflection, size and speed is the same. So for maximising the force the horn on the servo should be short (high force on the wire) and long horn in the rudder to maximise torque on this one…. But if it’s a slow model or acrobatic more throws would be needed instead of torque/force on the rudders…..

In short, always balance charge, always check your settings, always be nearby, and make sure they dont get hot

It does look like a really good kit to have

Looks Good I want to build one for the back of my truck. Can I get a copy of the 3d files.

Great 👍

Nice jig. Dag do you have a discord server?

Look forward to seeing this in action!

Did you finish the L-19 yet?

Eamonn is a legend!